Lorenzo Antinori & 1931 – One of Heering´s 200 years

Words by: Maggie Beale

To go from an uninspired law student to become a leading figure in the hospitality industry is no small achievement. And, to be at the cutting edge of the new Golden Age of cocktails in Korea when you do must seem like is a dream come true.

“Yes, it is.” Says Lorenzo Antinori, now Head Bartender at Charles H. in the Four Seasons Seoul. “I was studying law in Rome – my city, bored as can be and I decided to travel for a bit. I wanted to see something of the world. So I took a year off to travel to Australia. But when I went back to my studies I also took a part-time job working at a bar in Rome. But it didn’t take me long to realise that lawyer work wasn’t for me.”

So he began his new career in hospitality in the heart of his hometown at the Hotel de Russie, part of the Rocco Forte Collection in Rome.

This was followed by experiences in Australia and Mexico before he settled down in London, England working at the renowned Savoy Hotel’s American Bar in 2011 under the tutelege of his mentor, Erik Lorincz.

Lorenzo then moved over to the Beaufort Bar at the Savoy Hotel working alongside  Head Bartender Chris Moore to develop the bar programme from 2103 to 2015. During this time, the bar was recognised as Best International Hotel Bar at the annual Spirited Awards at Tales of the Cocktail.

Before making the decision to move to Seoul, Lorenzo held the post of Head Bartender at the Mondrian Hotel London’s Dandelyan bar, where he took the bar to new heights positioning it at No.3 on the World’s 50 Best Bars 2016.

He reminisces, “When I heard that Chris Lowder – who had opened Charles H. in the Four Seasons Seoul in 2015, was looking for someone to replace him as Head Bartender I immediately applied for the job. I was fascinated that there was a bar in Korea that was following the legacy and tastes of Charles H. Baker Jr. – someone I admired greatly.”

The legendary American traveller, cocktail writer and bon vivantCharles H. Baker Jr., was a Florida native who drank and ate his way around the world from the 1920s to the 1950s jotting down recipes as he went. He is best known as the author of The Gentleman’s Companionand The South American Gentleman’s Companion, both two-volume works published in the 1930s that explored Baker’s culinary and libational adventures around the world with delicious recipes for food and drink.

Lorenzo adds, “Throughout my career, I spent a lot of time enjoying the Charles H. Baker’s story and when the opportunity came to join the outstanding team here in Seoul, it was serendipitous. And I am excited to carry on the next phase of Charles H. with the team and to also share my love for cocktails and the story of Charles H. with the people here in Seoul, and to the global audience as well!”

In February 2017 he joined the Four Seasons Seoul as new Head of the bar programme of Charles H., and he is responsible for the cocktail programme in all the hotel’s outlets. During this time, the bar ranked at No.27 in Asia 50 Best Bars and No.78 in World’s 100 Best Bars.

Snuggled away in the depths of the hotel, this sophisticated version of a speakeasy has a sleek 36-foot (11-metre) mahogany bar (helmed by Lorenzo) that is built around a menu that changes quarterly. It’s an attractive list that allows guests to experience the times and places that Baker visited – Cuba in 1930, Manila in 1934, Shanghai in 1926 – with drinks, eats and interior design coordinated to tell a distinctly American story of adventure and discovery of unique flavours from around the world. A fairy-tale for adults if you will!

For this celebration of Cherry Heering Bicentenary, Lorenzo has selected the year 1931. “This was the year that Charles H. Baker Jr. was in South Korea during his ‘Around the World’ travels and adventures. And, my inspiration has been to create a cocktail which has the DNA of a Remember the Maine, one of Baker’s classics [originally made with rye whiskey, sweet vermouth, Cherry Heering and absinthe], and to add a savoury element with a touch of ‘Ganjang’, Korean soy sauce.”

One of Lorenzo’s memorable experiences of Cherry Heering happened during the Tales of the Cocktails 2017 in New Orleans when six bars from around world – including Charles H. – showcased their own way of reproducing a Sling during the ‘War of the Sling’ event.

Commenting on the latest trends within the industry, and its future Lorenzo said, “It is to push the bar scene higher by adapting new technology such as fermentation, ageing, etc. to traditional practices as well as taking into account the right approach towards sustainability. Bartenders are becoming more curious, and consumers are more open-minded and desirous of trying new things. It is now essential to contribute further in creating a free and easy access to an educational platform for young professionals who are starting their journey in the hospitality industry.”

 

GLOBETROTTER

25ml Bourbon

25ml Calvados

25ml Sweet Vermouth

8ml Cherry Heering

1 dash Orange Bitter

1 drop Korean Soy Sauce (or standard)

Glass: Rock glass

Method: Stir and strain over a single large ice cube in a glass.

Garnish: An orange and lemon twist.

Ludde Grenmo & 1945 – One of Heering´s 200 years

Words by: Jeff Morgenthaler

Ludvig “Ludde” Grenmo is a bartender that I have a deep amount of respect for. He’s one of those bartenders who did it right: he paid his dues, picked up some serious chops, earned his stripes, and keeps working hard. And through it all, he remains serious about his work and yet one of the most fun and entertaining bartenders out there today.

Ludde lives and works in the same town he grew up in – Stockholm, Sweden. As a kid he dreamed about being a chef – or a rock star – one day. And fortunately for the younger version of himself, he has grown up to be both. But it’s the chef side that shines through and has really defined his decade-long career, in my opinion.

Ludde got his start in the business the same way I did, by working in shitty bars. Starting your career in dirty clubs and dives has a special place in my heart, and I just love that about Ludde. There’s a certain style of work that can only be taught in those sorts of bars, skills like developing the speed of a professional bartender, and how to really, really deal with people. It’s also where you discover your first few steps into the vast world of spirits. Ludde says that the first time he got drunk was with a bottle of Cherry Heering. I mean, let’s face it, who among us can’t admit something similar? I know I can.

Anyway, a bit of a turning point came when Ludde began working at Marie Laveau in the Stockholm city-center. I remember my first restaurant job, and it was a crucial turning point for me as well. It was there at Marie Laveau that Ludde learned about quality and began developing a keen interest in the culinary approach to cocktails. And Marie Laveau was the perfect place to do just that: featuring a super lively scene and Cajun food, it was the hottest restaurant in Stockholm for many years.

These days you can find him behind the bar at Tjoget, where he’s been for the better part of a decade. Tjoget is a fun project, a wine bar, cocktail bar, restaurant, and barber shop all in the same space. And best of all, he gets to work for his best friends. And, as such is my personal dream as well, Ludde plans on working behind the bar until he retires, sharing my dream of owning a little place around the corner from home, working and serving guests until it’s time to call it quits.

Anyway, for his year Ludde selected 1945. You’d think at first glance that a Swede would pick that year for some reference to World War II, or the advent of peace in Europe. But you don’t know Ludde well enough. Of course, it has something to do with restaurants.

1945 was the year when a Swedish man named Tore Wretman bought his first restaurant in Stockholm, a place called Riche which is still around and still an institution in the Swedish culinary scene. Wretman was really the godfather of Swedish cuisine. He traveled the world as a soldier, and studied food from New York to Paris, and in the process created what are now some iconic Swedish dishes.

The drink is a tribute to some time that Wretman spent behind the bar in Paris during the World’s Exposition, in the bar at the Swedish Pavillion. The bar was named Midnight Sun (Soleil du Minuit in French) and Midnight Sun is the name of Ludde’s cocktail.

Tore Wretman is responsible for creating what he called the “epice riche”, a spice blend that was the backbone of his cooking consisting of nutmeg, cloves, allspice and white pepper. It is still prominent in Swedish cooking today.

To make the drink, Cognac is blended with Madeira wine, and then hit with both Cherry Heering and Coffee Heering.  Caramelized “Filmjölk”, a Swedish acidic yoghurt” is added as a nod to Sweden’s dairy heritage, and then two dashes of Epice Riche extract finish the whole thing off. The cocktail is then shaken with ice, strained into a chilled glass coupe, and finished with freshly cracked pepper.

Ludde is a lot like the Midnight Sun, actually: a blend of the new and the old, a nod to tradition, but still a lot of fun to be around. A guy who can work a nightclub with the best of them, but who also tried to be a role model to others in the business with his attention to the environment, personal health, and innovation.

Midnight Sun

30 ML Hennessy VS

20 ML Cherry Heering

10 ML Coffee Heering

20 ML Madeira wine

30 Caramelized “Filmjölk”, Swedish acidic yoghurt” *

2 dash Epice riche –extract**

Glass: Coupe

Method: Shake all igredients with ice

Garnish: Ground black pepper on top

*Caramelized filmjölk

Equel parts filmjölk or yoghurt and caster sugar

Sous vide 20 h in 85c

**Epice riche extract

Steep half ground nutmeg, 2 cloves, 10 white peppercorns and 3 allspice in 10 cl vodka.

Let sit for 10 hours

Ian Matthews & 1990 – One of Heering´s 200 years

Words by: Ashley Pini

Born and raised in The Netherlands, Ian was introduced to French hospitality through his parents, whose friends owned prestigious sea-food & pizza restaurant, La Cigale, in The Provence in the South of France. At the age of 6 he was polishing utensils and rolling dough.

Ian was introduced to lot of different restaurant owners by his parents from a young age, which he recognises as the spark for his interest in the industry. “I started working in the kitchen of De Bisantiek in Breukelen at the age of 16” he said. “This French orientated kitchen got me hooked on the hospitality industry. We stuck together like family and worked as a team.”

So much so, he ended up renting a room next to the restaurant and combined high school with work. “Perfect for a student, as I didn’t have to cook!” he added.

From here, Ian stumbled across his first career move, “When I was going to the University of Groningen in the North of the Netherlands, I went with a friend to see the city a week before the year started. We went for a drink on this massive terrace on the central square. I asked if they needed people to work, and straight away got an interview and got the job,” he explained.

Today, a typical day at work doesn’t exist for Ian: “As I work on a global scale, time differences become second nature.” As such, he starts each working day on Australia – New Zealand time, early in the morning (7am). “Then I work my way back, till early evening when The States wake up,” he said.

Of his work, Ian enjoys attending local activations the most, “I love to engage with the bar scene and understand their challenges,” he explained. “A famous example of this was when there were no Sicilian lemons in India, or any decent lemons at all! So, our recipes had to be adjusted. Due to great local knowledge (taught to me by Arijit Bose), I found Gondoraaj (also known as Kaffir Lime), which lifted many of our recipes to new heights.”

“I love combining global knowledge and different cultural specialities” Ian continued. “I would like to see more local adaptations of international recipes; I think heritage and pride is important.”

Ian counts himself fortunate to be able to learn from others in the industry, in particular the man he claims “is making Vodka relevant again, Pepijn Janssens”

“We used to compete in the East African market (Brown Forman vs DIAGEO), but we joined forces in 2014 to work on an exciting craft brand portfolio. He looks at things differently, from another point of view to me; I am often too romantic.”

An emerging trend in the industry that Ian has become privy to is a move towards less complicated drinks; ones with just two or three ingredients and a mixer. That being said, he notes that: “The classics are still moving well. Old Fashioned, Negronis, Boulevardiers and Daiquiris. I’ve noticed that the quality of classic cocktails is improving across the board.”

When talking about Cherry Heering, a subject close to his heart, Ian ranks it as a must to have in your bar.

“It is in every bar I work with (or in). Of course I use it for Blood & Sand and for  Singapore Slings, but I discovered that there was more to it.  I had the honour to host the Cherry Herring workshop in New Delhi India. This was the first time I had been to a tasting this elaborate. We sampled all the spirit categories and discussed the various options that Cherry Heering offers. I got to talk about all my favourites, it was nice to be able to do this for the Delhi bartender scene.”

Ian chose the year 1990 as it is a special one for him, being the year that Nelson Mandela was freed. “As editor of the school newspaper, I wrote about it on the Commodore 64 and printed it on that old school chain paper.”

“Mandela brought the country together and was truly a father of the nation. He changed the political landscape and brought joy to the people. I only learned only at a later age that my grandfather is from South Africa. I find racial equality very important. We can learn so much from each other,” he added.

As for his cocktail, Ian explained “The Pina Colada deserves a comeback! So do all cruise ship drinks. I like the combination of tropical flavours and locally available ingredients, and so for my cocktail I incorporated a local famous salt called BraaiSout, to balance the sweetness of the juice.”

 Ipanapula Kolada

75ml Fresh pineapple juice

50ml Mhoba Small batch white rum

20ml Coca Re’Al

Rimmed Cherry Heering

Method: Vigorously shaken and strained over ice. Rim the top of a Libbey Pineapple glass with Cherry Heering and sprinkle with fresh grated coconut

Garnish: Homemade Braai Salt and an umbrella

Glassware: Libbey Pineapple glass

Leonardo Leuci & 1962 – One of Heering´s 200 years

Words by: Fabio Bacchi

He’s almost breathless when he arrives, Leonardo Leuci, the Commodore as his fans call him, and his cherished “crew” have a jam-packed set of tasks. Instinctively he says, almost as if talking to himself, “I think I’d like to run a historic coffee shop”.

Let’s be clear: if the inventor (together with Roberto Artusio, Alessandro Procoli and Antonio Parlapiano) of the “Jerry Thomas Project”, the bar which introduced the (very successful) formula of a speakeasyto Italy, identifies the comeback of tradition and historic coffee shops as a future trend, we should probably bet on it. He was already far-seeing with the Jerry Thomas, the first Italian speakeasy, which was born as an after-hours laboratory for certain bartenders, and that today is an award-winning cocktail bar that is highly regarded in international mixology.

The origins of success

“It was 2010,”explains Leuci,“I had been back in Italy for a year and was absolutely certain that the role of the Italian barman was about to change”. In what way?“Look at the British. The customer is always king, satisfying your clientele is the main objective. The opposite is true in Italy: the barman only thinks of himself, and in most cases, he thinks he’s king.”What do you think your contribution to the Italian bar industry has been? “We brought the focus back onto the bartender as a true artisan of drinking culture.” The speakeasy though, as a formula, has done its time. “Yes, true. We are on the downward slope of the curve. The trend of going back to tradition remains though, I mean the idea of a bar as a place for socialising. This is how I see historic bars coming back.” Are you ready to open one? “There’s no rush.”

 Wishes that turned into projects

I ask: and Vermouth? “This is an idea I’d had for ages. Already back in 1999 I used to ask myself if it were possible to have only one brand of Vermouth. It had always been one of the fundamental cocktail ingredients, sadly forgotten. So when we opened the “Jerry Thomas Speakeasy”, we decided to look for producers of vermouth on the ground, as an alternative to the big name brands.”You were looking for the lost vermouth? “Exactly. In 2010 we got the formula: 30 litres of what we would later call ‘Vermouth del Professore’. It was an artisanal aperitif, developed in collaboration between the Jerry Thomas Project and the Antica Distilleria Quaglia that today is exported all over the world.”Then there was the Emporium, the spirit shop. And Mezcal? “‘La Punta’ is a project being run mostly by Roberto Artusio, who has a real passion for Mexico. The project is following a similar journey as the Vermouth. The idea is to increase the value of Mezcal by protecting those small producers who risk becoming extinct.”How so? “We will support projects to keep those small businesses going, like for example, building wells for the small villages of mezcaleros, paying for the product. Through bartending we have granted many wishes, and we will continue to do so.”

Bar stories

Leonardo has travelled around the world, and has many stories to tell. One is about Cherry Heering and which he keeps close to his heart.

“At the end of the 90s I was working in a nice cocktail bar near Rome, in the historical centre of the city. One day during aperitif hour, a lovely old lady with a strong accent from the north of Italy come to the bar and start to explain to me that she hadn’t gone out for a drink in a very long time. This was because her old friends didn’t often go out anymore, but at the time she was on a little holiday with her son in Rome. So she said she wished to have a drink in a nice bar. After a few minutes of old memories she asked me for a Sherry”.

A Sherry Brandy, I asked!  “To be honest, the request sounded really strange to me. So I tried to get a better understanding, but when I asked if she wanted a Cherry Brandy she answered, ‘Yes yes, a Sherry Brandy. I used to drink it 30 years ago and I loved it.’ I decided to pour a glass of Cherry Heering instead of the Spanish wine”. And then? “She took the glass and start to sip the drink, and after the first sip she told me ‘Ooooh this is very good … the best one. The others I tried yesterday tasted like Marsala and I don’t want Marsala, I want this!”.

Bartending of the future

What do you see on the horizon? “To me, going back to old authentic recipes will become more and more of a trend in the next few years. Understanding those recipes, using them again, giving them a new life will help a new generation of bartenders understand the importance of historical roots in this profession. This is also why I believe in professional training, training that is serious, correct and passed on well. Training that gives merit to recipes and products that are still used today thanks to their ability to always remain contemporary, like Cherry Heering for example. Some things don’t happen by chance. Training must be a conscious luxury in this line of work.”

One year, one recipe

“1962 was the year Italian radio broadcast the first Beatles album. In Italy, this was when brandy and vermouth were very fashionable. The 60s were those years of protest, revolt and renewal. They are a great source of inspiration for me.”

 

THE RADIO

20 ml Italian Brandy

20 ml Dark Jamaican Rum

20 ml Cherry Heering

25ml lemon juice

10 ml sugar syrup

10 ml egg white

2 dash all spice bitters

Method: Shake all ingredients with ice and fine strain into chilled glass

Glass: Vintage coupette.

Garnish: Grated nutmeg

 

 

Kiki Moka & 1988 – One of Heering´s 200 years

Words by: Theodora Sutcliffe

Many might mock Tom Cruise’s 1988 film Cocktail– but for Kiki Moka, one of Indonesia’s top bartenders, it was transformative.

After finishing high school in his home city of Makassar, he tried to follow his dream of drumming in a rock band. Then an aunt asked if he’d like to come to Jakarta, 1,400km away on a completely different island, and work in a bar. “The night after she offered me the job, I watched the Cocktailmovie, and Tom Cruise,” he says. “I thought: ‘That’s the right job for me: fun, no pressure, no boring time in front of the computer. I’ll become a bartender!’”

The bar? Café Batavia, a landmark venue in a 200-year-old building at the heart of the gridlocked megacity’s historic quarter. Moka started as a bar back, clearing glasses, but couldn’t have had a better introduction to his craft: the menu was almost entirely classics. From there, he moved to the now-defunct Lamborghini Cafe, then wine bar Manna Lounge. There he met Michael Wijono, who is still, as one of the partners in Jakarta nightlife titan Union Group, his boss today. “We have 15 bars right now, and I look after all of them,” Moka says, although he’s most often to be found in Loewy, their buzzy bar and bistro in Kuningan.

Moka created his Heering anniversary cocktail, Cherry Pop, for another Union Group bar, The Dutch. “Every bar has a different character, and The Dutch is more into the beer style: at that time beer gardens were very fashionable in Jakarta but they mostly sold beer cocktails flavoured with fruit syrup, because it was very difficult to get Trappist beer or a decent fruit-flavoured beer,” he says. The Cherry Pop takes the beer + fruit syrup formula and upgrades it to a very adult beertail that blends the complexity of Guinness with Heering’s ripe cherry fruit.

Moka’s skill at creating elegant, unfussy drinks was recognised in 2011 when the World Class competition came to Indonesia for the first time. Somewhat to his surprise, he became the nation’s first World Class champion, competing in the finals in New Delhi alongside friends like Malaysia’s Shawn Chong. “I’d already learned about cocktails, but not deep like that: it took me to the next level of bartending,” he says.

Today, Union Group works hard to develop and retain bartending talent. “We travel a lot: we go to Hong Kong, London, Melbourne to learn about cocktails,” Moka says. “Every year we have a cocktail trip and my job is looking for which festival will increase our skill in terms of the company and affect the cocktail industry in Indonesia: it could be Tales, it could be Bar Convent Berlin…”

For, while there’s ample room for growth in the Indonesian market, cocktail culture could do with some help. A nation with six official religions, over 700 languages, around 18,000 islands (they’re still counting) and over 260 million people presents its own very special challenges. At the moment, the one that’s bugging Moka is stock availability. Duty charges are stiff, imports are irregular and it’s not uncommon for products to run out across the nation.

Assuming the stock crisis stabilises and Bali’s volcano behaves itself, Moka would like to set up a cocktail week on Bali, perhaps as early as this year: industry friends in Bangkok and Singapore are already on side. “I’m really concerned to promote cocktail culture for Indonesia,” he says. “But there’s so much traffic in Jakarta it’s no good for bar hopping, and I think brand ambassadors would prefer to come to Bali.”

While Indonesia’s bartending industry is overwhelmingly focused on Bali and Jakarta, Moka is doing his bit to help spread the cocktail gospel nationwide. He consulted on the opening of Makassar’s first cocktail bar, ON20, in 2016. “The bar is selling 60-80 Martinis a month,” he says with pride.

Menus have changed beyond recognition over Moka’s 20 years in the industry. “Over the last eight to 10 years, it’s been changing: before it was mostly blue drinks, or lots of spirits and liqueurs in a single glass, super-strong drinks with an ugly colour, flairing, cocktails with fire, flaming drinks,” he says. “Now there’s more classics and twisted classics. A few bars are also playing around with zero waste ingredients, and there are some that are using the centrifuge and the rotary evaporator.”

When Moka is not in a bar, you’ll often see him on his custom motorbike, a sleek black beast that’s sponsored by Brown-Forman. “Now it’s become a bartender hobby: there’s around 12 bartenders building bikes now, and we’ve already finished three,” he says. “We’re going to ride together from Jakarta to Bali.” The Tom Cruise of Cocktailmight not approve – but the Tom Cruise of Top Guncertainly would.

Cherry Pop

30ml Peter Heering Cherry Brandy (chilled)

15ml Dark Rum

Fill up with Guinness Draught

 

Garnish: with Cherry Macerated Peter Heering 1 day.

Glass : Coupe

Method : Build ingredients in a glass

 

Leo Robitschek & 1876 – One of Heering´s 200 years

Words by: Theodora Sutcliffe

“When we were opening NoMad, we took a walk through the area with David Wondrich,” Leo Robitschek recalls.

“There used to be this little area of bars and debauchery called Satan’s Circus, which was also where the theatres were. There was no area quite like this. It was centred around the New York elite, but also the underbelly of society. It was where Jerry Thomas opened his first bar. So the Satan’s Circus was the first cocktail I created for the NoMad using that background.”

Since joining the team at Eleven Madison Park, the world’s best restaurant per the 2017 World’s 50 Best, Robitschek’s career has gone from strength to strength. The NoMad NYC ranks an impressive #3 on the World’s 50 Best Bars, and #1 in North America. It’s been recognised with a James Beard award for best bar programme and Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards for best American bar team, best American hotel bar and best American restaurant bar. And, as we speak, Robitschek has just opened the bars at the new NoMad LA.

Robitschek chose 1876 for his Heering Anniversary year less for a specific event than as an emblem of a very particular era: a period when Gilded Age glories and Gangs of New York grime intersected to help launch the age of the cocktail. “1876 was a time when all those bars and saloons happened to be there,” he says. “It was a time when there was a lot happening, a mixture between all the different classes in the saloons and gambling halls. It was a time in New York when everything was starting to gentrify in a way, and the area was very popular with people that just wanted a good drink but also with people who had their vices.”

 A devilish, deceptively simple blend of just four ingredients: rye whiskey, Cherry Heering, chilli-infused Aperol and citrus, the Satan’s Circus demonstrates Robitschek’s culinary precision and laser-sharp detailing. “We use five different types of chilli for the infusion: split them in half, let them macerate for 5-10 minutes, then start tasting,” he says.

Although he now oversees a total of seven bars – one at Eleven Madison Park, two at NoMad NYC and four at NoMad LA – it took Robitschek a while to commit to bartending as a career. When he started the beverage programme at Eleven Madison Park, it was as a side job while he took additional college courses after his career in finance palled.

In fact, even when Robitschek started work on the NoMad, he was far from committed. “They sat me down at the table, said, ‘What do you want to do?’ I said, ‘I’m going to go to medical school,’” he recalls. “They said, ‘We have a project we might be working on, called the NoMad: do you want to work on it?’ I did it, thinking I’d join for a year and then go to medical school, and I’ve never looked back.”

 Overseeing the bar programme at the world’s best restaurant – where dinner will set you back $315 in the main dining room or $175 in the bar – has both rewards and challenges. “A lot of people get set in their ways: you become number one in the world, and you’re scared to change, so you continue down a specific path. We blossom and embrace change,” Robitschek says. “There’s a painter that said, ‘I change to continue being who I am,’ and that’s something we truly believe in, and that we embrace.”

Robitschek still works super-closely with Daniel Humm, chef at both Eleven Madison Park and the NoMad, taking inspiration from new ingredients he’s excited about, or new dishes he’s created. “We also work with one of our R&D chefs: they take the backburner and don’t impose ideas on us, but they’re there to help us extract any flavours that we want to,” Robitschek says. While the kitchen helps with specifically culinary ingredients and with fermentation, his team, which includes bartenders with a background in cooking, is self-sufficient most of the time.

 And the resources don’t stop at the kitchen. Robitschek bases his famous Reserve cocktail list on a wealth of rare spirits, sourced from auctions, estate sales and specialist dealers. Yet, surprisingly, one of the industry trends he’s most enthusiastic about is the rediscovery of fun. “I think for a long time, especially in New York with this cocktail renaissance, you were building speakeasies to showcase these craft cocktails,” he says. “Now there’s so many different styles of bars: they’re dive bars, theme bars, they have really good cocktails but they’re a bit loose and alive.”

 It’s a panoply of liquid wonders Jerry Thomas would likely have appreciated as he wandered through Satan’s Circus all those moons ago

SATAN´S CIRCUS

2oz Rye Whiskey

3/4oz Cherry Heering

3/4oz Chile-infused Aperol

3/4oz Fresh lemon juice

Glass: Coupe

Method: Combine whiskey, cherry liqueur, aperol and lemon juice in a cocktail shaker. Fill with ice, cover and shake

until outside of shaker is frosty, about 30 seconds. Strain into glass

Kamil Foltan & 1993 – One of Heering´s 200 years

Words by: Ashley Pini

Born and raised in the Czech Republic, Kamil Foltan has spent the last 10 years travelling and working across Europe & Asia, finding his current home in Singapore.

He began his career studying at hospitality and tourism school, and supported himself by picking up shifts in cafes, nightclubs, pubs, restaurants, fine dining establishments and hotels, which “enabled me to understand all of the different types of food and beverage establishments,” he explained.

“The biggest influences on me during my youth were my father, grandfather and uncle who were all strong personalities involved in many parts of food and beverage; from hotel operations and winemaking to running restaurants back at home.”

Coming from a hospitality background had a huge natural influence on Kamil: it seemed that “everyone knew this was the industry for me”. Of course there have been plenty of ups and downs, but with a positive attitude Kamil has always loved the places he has worked.

“Over time, my mentors have included such personalities as Tony Conigliaro, Zdenek Kastanek, Ryan Clift and Dre Masso,” he revealed.

“These days my days are scheduled based on projects we are involved in. In the morning it’s straight to work at our home office, in the afternoon I have a break with my son and then I continue working till late. My work varies from building beverage programs, revising operations for our clients, getting ready for events and working on articles for The Indigenous Bartender website.”

Kamil said, “I love flavours and different cultures. This is where I drive inspiration from and of course in meeting new people in the industry. My wife and family motivate me.”

He continued “There are several people that I look up to and they are all from different industries. This allows me to see things with fresh eyes.”

“When I start bartending, I had to do presentation about one of the classic cocktails from all around the world. Guess what I have picked up Singapore Sling and if someone told me that I will be living I would not believe it at all. Through my research about Singapore Sling, I have learnt that it was the original cherry liquor for the cocktail that I have fallen in love with. (Both, the cocktail and the liquor). Since then, it is part of my back bar all the time

“As the co-owner of a company we also aim carve our own path,” he finished.

Of trends in the industry, Kamil noted “I’ve found that recently the subjects of locality, seasonality, sustainability come up in conversation quite often.”

“In regards to drinks in particular, classics such as Negronis, Old Fashioned, Sours, Daiquiris and Martinis are still very popular.”

Kamil’s Sling

50ml Tanqueray Ten

10ml Cherry Heering

10ml Triple sec

10ml Benedictine D.O.M.

25ml Lemon juice

10ml Homemade grenadine*

Top with soda

Method: Pour ingredients into Tiki mug and stir. Add crushed ice and top with soda.

Glass: Tiki mug

Garnish:Pineapple wedge and cherry

*Homemade grenadine

Commercial grenadine syrup can be used.

For homemade grenadine, dissolve 1 mug caster sugar into 1 mug freshly pressed pomegranate juice in a pan over low heat.

Do not allow to boil. When sugar is fully dissolved, allow to cool, add 3 drops lemon juice, then strain, bottle and refrigerate.

 

 

 

Julie Reiner & 2010 – One of Heering´s 200 years

Words by: Jeffrey Morgenthaler

Julie’s path from 18 year old cocktail server to international cocktail icon is a long and beautiful one, and looking at her career, it seems as if she planned it all along. Reiner grew up in Hawaii, surrounded by the bounty of flavors and ingredients of the islands. She worked as a server in a cocktail bar for a while, but eventually moved to San Francisco to, among other things, begin her career behind the bar.

Just over a decade ago, I had the privilege of getting to visit New York City for the first time in my life. I was nervous and excited, and upon my arrival I got to fulfill one of my longtime dreams. I checked into my hotel, dropped my bags, and went downstairs and hailed a taxi. And just a short while later I was finally seated at the first New York cocktail bar on my list: Julie Reiner’s Flatiron Lounge.

She started at the now-defunct Red Room, that legendary club known for all manner of “Tini” served in oversized glassware. The bartenders would train her in military fashion, shouting drink orders at her and throwing her to the wolves daily until she got up to speed behind the bar. Which she did, successfully, until her then-girlfriend and now-wife Susan was accepted at NYU for grad school. And that’s when everything began to snap into place for Julie Reiner.

She followed Sue to New York, and began working at C3 Lounge, a hotel bar on Washington Square Park. It was there that she met Dale Degroff. It was there that she got her first piece of press from the New York Times. And it was there that the attention she received resulted in her being pushed out of the bar and onto her own.

The unique approach that Julie brought to the New York cocktail scene could only have come from her personal history. Growing up in Hawaii gave her a unique perspective on fresh flavors and warm hospitality. Training in San Francisco gave her insight into a seasonal and locally-driven culinary approach. Working in New York gave her an interest in and appreciation for classic cocktails. And in 2003 she took all of this and poured it into her first bar: the now iconic Flatiron Lounge.

The Flatiron is a sort of Art Deco love letter to old New York drinking. Classics are presented with perfection. Originals are crafted with the freshest ingredients. And the hospitality and space are both warm and inviting. In the early days of Flatiron Lounge, Cherry Heering was one of her favorite modifiers.  The cocktail-minded bartender wasn’t able to procure as many liqueurs back then, especially high quality ones like Cherry Heering.  Heering was used quite often on the menu, and she loved that it had such a long history.

In 2005, Julie partnered with Audrey Saunders to open Pegu Club, now another New York staple (and the second New York bar on my list of places to visit). In 2008 she opened Clover Club in Brooklyn. All three bars opened to rave reviews and have enjoyed a top ranking among the best bars in the world.  In 2009, Clover Club was honored with the award for “Best New Cocktail Lounge in the World” at Tales of the Cocktail, and in 2013, took home the awards for “Best American Cocktail Bar”, and “Best High Volume Bar”. Julie was personally awarded “Best Bar Mentor” as well.

In 2015, Julie opened Leyenda, a pan Latin bar and restaurant with Ivy Mix, a long time bartender at Clover Club.  Leyenda celebrates spirits and imbibing traditions from across the Spanish-speaking world and beyond. Julie’s consulting company, Mixtress Consulting, helps to create top-notch beverage programs and cocktails for restaurants, bars, resorts, and spirits companies. Her book, The Craft Cocktail Party: Delicious Drinks for Every Occasion was released in 2015 as well.

The year she selected is 2010, the year that she and Susan opened up a modern tropical cocktail bar in Manhattan called Lani Kai.  It was designed much like the modern hotels are on the islands. This cocktail, the Lani Kai Sling, was actually created for the opening menu. The idea was to create a rum riff on the Singapore Sling.

The Lani Kai Sling uses a split base of Hawaiian Agricole Rhum, and a white rum from Guyana.  The rums are combined in a cocktail shaker with Cherry Heering, Benedictine, Cointreau, house-made grenadine, fresh pineapple and lime juices, and Angostura bitters.The drink is shaken with ice and strained over fresh ice in a Hurricane glass, then garnished with a pineapple wedge, umbrella, and Luxardo cherry.

Julie’s career is a study in perfection, a nearly-perfect progression in this business, and one based on the ever unattainable goal of perfection. She not only makes the world a better place for her guests, she improves the lives of the people that work for her, and she gives us all, no matter how far we might live from New York, something – and someone – to look up to.

Lani Kai Sling

1 oz Hawaiian Agricole Rhum (KoHana Kea is the one I use)

1 oz aged white rum (I use El Dorado 3 year)

.25 oz Cherry Heering

.25 oz Benedictine

.25 oz Cointreau

.25 oz Grenadine*

1.5 oz fresh squeezed

pineapple juice

.5 oz fresh lime juice

1 dash Angostura Bitters

*Grenadine:

Mix all ingredients thoroughly

1 quart sugar

1 quart water

2 ½ oz pomegranate molasses

1 tbsp almond extract

1/8 tsp red food coloring

Method:Combine all ingredients in a mixing tin, and shake with ice.

Glass: Half hurricane

Garnish: Pineapple slice, umbrella, and Luxardo cherry

 

Joe Schofield & 1966- One of Heering´s 200 years

Words by: Maggie Beale

Modern history shows that art students often have an affinity for finding summer jobs in the hospitality industry – at entry level it’s pretty easy and you get to meet new people all the time. Usually it’s not a permanent career – but Joe Schofield has made it so.

One step at a time, Joe has gained experience under some of the most accomplished experts in the bartending world. Principally at some of London’s internationally renowned cocktail bars – including The Zetter Townhouse; and The American Bar (No. 2, The World’s 50 Best Bars 2016)and Beaufort Bar at The Savoy; and including stints in Melbourne and Sydney, Australia.

“When I was 16 I took a part-time job in a local pub which was 10 minutes away from my house,” Joe said recently, “Two years later when I went to university in Leeds to study contemporary art, I started working at cocktail bars there, and that’s when I fell in love with the cocktail world.”

His rapid climb up the regional bar ranks was assured when he placed in the top five of the Bombay Sapphire World’s Most Imaginative Bartender competition, Followed quickly by coming in as a Global Finalist at the Beefeater Mix London. And as well as being picked to judge at the Bacardi Legacy regional finals in the United Kingdom, Joe most recently took his place as an International Bartender of the Year top 10 contender in the Tales of the Cocktail’s 2017 Spirited Award – all in the span of four short years.

In 2016, Joe had moved from behind London’s legendary bar venue at The Savoy to Asia to join the Tippling Club in Singapore – a city where he had – like many before him – enjoyed his first drink of the Singapore Sling in The Long Bar at Raffles Hotel.

With 10 years of experience behind the bar, he is well equipped to take on the position of Head Bartender at Tippling Club and Group Bar Manager overseeing the bar programmes for Ding Dong, Open Door Policy and Open Farm Community.

Dedicated career moves or serendipity? Perhaps a magical combination of both!

“It’s a challenge, though one that I embrace, to develop bar programmes for various establishments. It’s important that they complement the distinctive cuisines offered and yet are strong enough to stand on their own,” Joe rightly avers.

Shortly after settling in, Joe introduced Tippling Club’s latest memory-triggering cocktail programme—the Sensorium Menu. Conceived together with Chef Ryan Clift, the bespoke menu delivers an olfactory drinking experience that trigger a number of carefully curated scents into rousing memories and emotions through 12 unique cocktails.

As Joe explains, “The menu and drinking experiences are definitely going to showcase the synergy we have between kitchen and bar, in terms of both flavour and technique. I think a drink should always tell a story and be representative of the venue. In the new menu, we have developed quite a few out of left-field garnishes with help from the kitchen. And some drinks will tell a story using conceptual ideas.”

Their menu has since won the plaudits of industry experts and bartending authorities alike, paving the way to a prestigious top 10 spot in the World’s Best Cocktail Menu category of the Tales of the Cocktail’s 2017 Spirited Awards.

“I believe that the current trend in the industry today is with more and more bartenders starting to look towards the kitchen for inspiration. It is a huge privilege being able to do this on a daily basis at Tippling Club. There’s always so much to learn from that side of the F&B world!”

Joe further explained how to increase staff knowledge and experience. “At Tippling Club we actively encourage all team members to spend more time learning from different departments and aspects of hospitality. Some of their options is to spend time in the kitchen as well as taking part in wine training and tastings with our sommeliers.”

Of course, all of this continuous research has gained attention, and since joining Tippling Club, Joe has been instrumental in racking up an impressive array of accolades for the bar. In 2017 the venue placed at No. 11 in Asia’s 50 Best Bars awards, brought home the title of Best International Restaurant Bar at the Tales of the Cocktail’s 2017 Spirited Awards as Singapore’s only winning entry, and by being named Best Restaurant Bar for a second consecutive year at The Bar Awards Singapore.

In celebration of Cherry Heering’s 200th anniversary, Joe says his cocktail was inspired by the extremely iconic Cherry Red Ford Mustang that was created in 1966.

“I wanted to work with flavours that play well with Cherry Herring and were relevant to our beverage philosophy at Tippling Club where we blur the lines between kitchen and bar. In the Mustang we use an Apple Cider Gastrique, a combination of caramel and apple cider vinegar that works beautifully with the flavour profile of the Cherry Herring.”

 

MUSTANG

35ml Bourbon

15ml Cherry Heering

27.5ml Apple Cider Gastrique*

1 Dash Peychaud Bitters

Glass: Rocks

Method: Stir all ingredients with ice and serve on one block ice

Garnish: Long lemon and long orange twists

 

*Apple Cider Gastrique:

20ml Caramel Syrup

7.5ml Apple Cider Vinegar

Caramel Syrup:

200g Caster Sugar, 4tbsp Water

Heat caster sugar in pan with water on a medium/high heat without stirring.

Gently brush sides frequently with a wet pastry brush. In 5-8 minutes the bubbling mixture will turn to a light blond colour.

Allow to cool for 10 minutes and then add70g additional water

Joerg Meyer & 1914 – One of Heering´s 200 years

Words by: Ashley Pini

“When it comes to bartenders, you often can divide them into two teams: The ones who hunt down flavours and love the idea of putting many of them in a glass, and the ones who love the idea of using as few ingredients as possible. Both ways can create awesome drinks. It is more a question of personal style,” explained Joerg.

“Next to some basil affairs, I am more the second type of bartender,” Joerg continued.  

“I love classic cocktails, and for me a truly perfect drink has as few ingredients as possible. If you ask someone for a drink, and he or she serves you a two ingredients drink, this person has courage.”

Examples of such drinks are The Rusty Nail: “a famous two-part drink, often terribly sweet, sometimes executed by a master as a perfect drink,” Joerg continued. 

The Padovani is the modern version of this idea, a drink that Joerg mixes a lot of in his Cinchona Bar in Zurich. He also enjoys playing around with dozens of versions of Gin & Tonics: “I have fallen in love with this kind of strong, two ingredients player.”

 “You learn over time that in a two ingredients drinks, there is no place to hide cheap or weak ingredients. Two ingredient drinks are very honest; they tell you everything about the bartender and the ingredients.”

 Regaling a story from a few years ago, Joerg recounts that he invited Hidetsuego Ueno to attend as a guest at Le Lion Bar de Paris, a masterclass on Japanese ice handling: “I talked to him about my love for simple drinks, and I knew that he agreed with me.”

 Joerg continued: “I will never forget the first time I met him on the Cocktail & Spirit Stage in Paris, where he served us all the Bamboo Cocktail. His White Ladies are legendary. From then I knew, this was the right person to talk to about perfect and simple drinks.”

 It was during an afternoon playing around behind Le Lion Bar with Ueno that Joerg was introduced to Cherry Heering: “He introduced me to a simple yet difficult Cherry Heering drink, the Hunter Cocktail.”

 “He mixed me about two parts of a strong Noah’s Mill Bourbon with one part of Cherry Heering, and served it with his well-known smile. BOOM. I loved it. Bourbon and Cherry Heering. That’s it. You do not need anything more to create the perfect drink.”

 Following this encounter, Joerg began to practice mixing to perfect the ratio: “After that first perfect sip of a Hunter mixed by Ueno, I started to search my library for this drink and I found a few old recipes. The oldest I could find was from 1914.”

 “Jacques Straub calls in his book Drinks, for a one to two ratio with Rye Whiskey. Ueno explained to me that he had changed it because Bourbon was a perfect match, and I agreed.”

 On this note, Joerg started to play around with “different, younger and elegant Ryes,” finally settling on Vulson Old Rye for the perfect Hunter, with a modern twist.

  

The Hunter

50 ml Vulson Old Rye Whisky

20 ml Cherry Heering

  

Method: Fill a stirring glass with extra cold ice, stir and strain Glass: Rocks

 

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